Last Update: 10/9/2019
I have created this bit of documentation for those of you that are wanting more power and maybe cruising the Highways at modern speeds. Even perhaps cooling your trips with an Air Conditioner or perchance Electric Power Steering (EPS) like I have done. My suggestion for the best and perhaps most economical way is by installing a FORD 2.8 V6 engine in an Alpine. This documentation is in no way complete, but, a lot better than what I had to start with.
The Ford 60 degree V6 engines referenced here were designed in Cologne Germany and became known as a Cologne engine. Just remember the Cologne engine is all metric. We will likewise be working with the 1974 & 78 Mustang II and other interchangeables such as the Pinto, Mercury Capri and Mercury BobCats and the 1983-86 Ranger/Bronco II’s and some Aerostars. I have found some ‘79 &’80 Mustang & Mercury Capri also have engines, flywheels and maybe bellhousing that are acceptable for this conversion. The early 2.8’s are common with the other 60 degree 2.9 & 4.0’s except for one major characteristic, that being the Siamese exhaust ports on the 2.8’s. This design is said to be especially fitting for the Alpine conversion as an implant of the 2.8 V6 Power plant just because of the exhaust port design.
It seems to be a natural fit for the Alpine. Removal of the original engine mounts is the only necessity with exception of widening of the transmission tunnel in some cases, so you will not be butchering your Alpine.
Installation is made easy with the use of my two piece engine mounts consisting of: (1). a top bracket that is bolted to the engine; (2). The Anchor 2424 rubber biscuits connecting the top piece and (3). The bottom piece that serves as a “Stop or catch” on the crossmember which keeps the engine from being placed too far forward thus allowing adequate spacing between the radiator and the fan. This bottom piece is welded in place. See PIC below for the “Stop”. Details are furnished on the alignment, fitting and necessary welding for a nice complete installation of the engine mount brackets (See Engine Mounts).
In order to help you find various parts or find answers to some questions, this documentation is arranged in alphabetical order by components or individual pieces that may be utilized in the conversion.
ADAPTER, PILOT SHAFT BUSHING
Your transmission selection “will” determine whether or not you will need an adapter. For sure if you elect to go “Automatic” the adapter is not applicable. See PILOT Bearing.
Various choices are available, here the 9” Spectre P/N 4770 is a nice choice on SD Pace’s 2.8 V6.
Notice He is running an A/C unit too. Top hose connect from the water neck on the intake routed to the top left of radiator is one such modification recommended for a better fit down below with the modified Thermostat housing. More on the recommended options later. Not shown is his Electric Power Steering (EPS). Smart Guy:)
AIR COMPRESSOR BRACKET
Consist of 2 pieces, comes with Adj arm. An option for you Guys & Gals wanting to have a “Cool”Alpine. PIC’s are available for How to do the A/C.
I like the A/C Delco single wire mainly because it is available in about any parts store if you should need one while away from home.
ALTERNATOR BRACKET w/Adj Arm
2 piece allows for precise alignment of your alternator. Below PIC shows Bracket in place w/bolts.
Solenoid to starter Standard A32-1L 1 gauge 32” long. Runs from starter solenoid on firewall to the starter.
The bearing retainer (Transmission Input Shaft) needs to be shortened to the length of the FORD 5.0 T5 (1994-95 V8 applications) which is 4”.
See also PILOT BEARING
RETAINER/Housing: Needs to be shortened to 4” (the length of the 5.0 T5). And the diameter needs to be milled to fit snugly in the opening of the Mutt II bell housing. The Bell housing ID is 4.850″ . To mate with a slip fit, the Input Bearing Retainer Large diameter should be turned to 4.846″ +/- 0.001″. See PIC
The correct bell housing P/N D4ZA-6394 CC: It’s made of aluminum & the most defining feature is the bell crank to operate the clutch, an arm/lever from the driver side of the bell housing.
The clutch lever is a must for the V6 conversion, unless you go with an internal hyd release bearing or convert to an Automatic transmission. The area in the “Orange” circle is where the stock clutch cable release connection was originally. It must be removed to provide clearance for an external slave cylinder to function.
What choice of cam to use will bring lots of opinions. I followed the flow when I first started my conversion! I bought a cam that was recommended as a mild to hot street only to find out later that it was a “Full Race” cam. Not good for what I wanted. If you want a “Hot”, “Big”, race cam Delta Cams has what you need. After about four months of trying to get my V6 to idle below 1300 – 1500 RPM (Zero Vacuum below 900-1000RPM) I gave up and called Delta. Quickly learned it was a “BIG CAM Full RAce with zero vacuum below 900 RPM”. COMP; Crane; ERSON and a few others can fix you up nicely.
Highly recommend a mild cam for street and everyday driving and maybe gettin’ it on occasion. If you want to race, Delta has it!
You have several options. Run a stock setup 2bbl or a 4 bbl with OFY intake pictured below which is a very good performer. In 2nd PIC the stock water neck points to the right side of the Alpine. 3rd PIC shows both angles. In 1st PIC below the water neck has been modified to turn toward the left side of the radiator. I have until recently recommended modification to point to the left for a simpler connection and routing of the Hoses. Even though it is more expensive, it’s an effective modification that looks nice. But, In an attempt to be both performance minded and cost effective, I recently discovered perhaps a “better” way to route the upper water hose and save dollars! (See Radiator modifications for directions and a PIC of the new routing of the upper hose Gates 21341 cut to fit). Lots of good selections on the Custom Valve Covers too!
Installation of the OFY intake manifold requires some special attention. It is made in two pieces, a top for the Carb Base and the bottom that connects to the heads. The PIC’s that follow may be of great benefit to the installer. You will need four (4) Metric bolts one of which is shorter than the others. It is to be installed in the right rear recessed hole. In the lower PIC there is a rib that runs between the holes, notice the empty hole, there is a raised area about a ¼” taller than the opposite hole. This is for the shorter bolt.
CLUTCH CYLINDER AND BRACKET INSTALLATION
Make sure the bleeder valve on the cylinder is pointing upward (high point). See PIC’s for positioning!. You may need to fabricate a clevis. A clutch pedal stop has been recommended to prevent over extending the clutch when pedal is fully depressed.
Mustang II has 10 spline and is 9 ½” dia.
CLUTCH DISC INTERCHANGE
1974-’79 FORD MUSTANG II, All USA V6 2.8L 171 cid 4 speed manual; 1979 Mercury Capri all USA V6 2.8L171cid; Mercury BobCat; Pinto; here’s a website: www.kyclutch.com recommended by Paul A that does clutch work. Ram Clutch in Columbia, SC also.
CLUTCH RELEASE/THROW-OUT BEARING
With the Mustang II bell housing, flywheel and pressure plate, use the throw out bearing for a Mustang II four speed 1974-1978. Check the fingers on your pressure plate. If the fingers are curved on the ends, use a bearing that has a flat contact surface. If the fingers are flat, use one with a curved contact surface.
Clutches that operate with Hydraulics to activate the clutch disc. RamClutch.com and McLeod racing are a couple suppliers.
315 H 077 74 & D4ZF-6312-AA (See PIC’s)
CROSS LINK Replacement
My designed cross link PIC’d below is one piece formed in a Hyd Press w/o welding, has threaded ends for tie rods. It comes with 2 new tie rod ends & lock nuts. Adjust to match your stock linkage, approximately 21” center to center of the tie rod ends. Front end alignment is recommended
An option less costly but just as effective. Bolts and Spacers (4140) used with your stock Cross link bar to replace stock bolts/pins. Recommend you purchase replacement bushings from one of the Sunbeam Alpine suppliers for your stock crosslink bar/rod with this alternate option pictured below, save about $100.
OEM type Distributors, parts and ignition boxes available as aftermarket parts. Distributor clamp – Mr Gasket 9860 and Lockdown Bolt Kipling Metric 8.8; Mallory and DuraSpark are good for this conversion. Distributor Ignition Control Mustang II Unit 1976-78; Standard Motor Products LX203T. It was recommended that I should salvage/hunt for the electronic ignition from the Mutt II car getting the Brain box & pigtail that connects the unit to the body wire loom in order to connect the wire that corresponds to the “white” wire coming from the “box” to the body. I attempted that on several cars but found most times they were not salvageable. I discovered a new and separate wiring harness that makes things very simple with less mess, a DuraSpark II Ignition Harness Part Number 30812 from Painless Wiring Accessories.
Searching in the local Salvage Yard has mostly proven futile when looking for a drive shaft that can be modified for the T5 conversion. My recommendation is have your drive line shop build you a drive shaft suitable to your needs. So why bother? Get the new stuff. Some of the guys that have done this and willing to share are guys like Paul A on the SAOCA Forum who had a custom driveshaft made up using 2.5″ X .065″ tubing. To this was welded a Neapco 2-2-899 flange yoke using a Neapco 10433 U-joint. Machining, welding, balancing and tax came to $189.26. Another great contributor to this project, Jim Nichols, provides this bit of information: The Common C4 Automatic yoke works for the Ford T5. The part# listed is for the Sunbeam stock axle yoke. I always get both needed yokes first and put the front yoke all the way in and pull out 1″. Measure between for your driveline for length. Speedway Motors sells a 2″ tube driveline at a reasonable price in various lengths for the 1310 U joints.
I took a couple of Alpine drive shafts, to a Driveline shop and had them build me a couple for my cars undergoing V6 modifications. The Alpine (rear) and new Front yokes were welded to new tubes then balanced for about $150.00 each. I believe you can get all new parts from a reputable Driveline Shop. Even the Alpine rear yoke as Paul A has pointed out.. A new yoke is cheaper than looking for a used t-bird drive shaft. IMHO.
As an added thought, I recommend you check the yoke for your driveshaft by fitting it in the tail shaft “before” installing the engine and tranny in your Alpine. The first time, I had everything installed before I attempted to hook up the driveshaft. To my surprise the yoke would not slip into the tail shaft but an inch or so. No amount of effort would make it work short of removal of the engine and tranny… UGH! Found the tailshaft bushing was the wrong one!!
2.8 V6 FORD (COLOGNE) Mustang II 1974-1978; Mercury BobCats; Mercury Capris; & Pinto’s; have correct bellhousing; flywheel/clutch pack; & timing cover. I found some ‘79 & ‘80 Mustang’s &Capri’s also have the correct 2.8 V6’s. The ’83-86 Ranger/Bronco II, AeroStar’s 2.8 V6 engine and heads will work. The timing cover will not due to the thermostat configuration, neither will the water pump, its’ snout being too long. The ’79 Mercury Capri is good except the bellhousing is a bit different! If you are going with an Automatic, moot point!
- Water inlet connection – Commonly referred to as Thermostat Housing – New stock replacements (Four Season 84861). Need to be Modified! Available in DanR’s Components.
- Thermostat – I run mostly the 180 -185’s
- Water pump – Ranger/Bronco II will not work for this conversion. Note: Besure to install the water pump before the Harmonic Balancer pulley!
- Timing cover – Must be Mustang II or from one of the interchangeable Vehicles. See PIC in later
- By-pass hose flange – By pass hose from intake connects here. (Three eared housing). Be extremely careful tightening the bolts (metric) because the ears are aluminum.
- Oil seal (front) is best installed using an appropriate tool. When fitting the timing cover utilize the Harmonic Balancer (Hub), as a guide if you do not have a tool. Insert all of the correct metric bolts first before tightening.
- Camshaft thrust plate –
- Camshaft gear – Make sure you get the “all” metal one
- Crankshaft gear – Get the metal one!
- Flywheel – Mutt II or and interchangeable for the manual transmission. Different, if you elect to go with the Automatic tranny.
- Crankshaft pilot bearing – Depends on the transmission you choose. I have the Adapters available.
- Oil seal – Rear
- Crankshaft – Recommend not to use if over .030 plus
- Oil pump drive shaft – Check on some later notes when installing.
- Main Bearing block (s) –
- Oil Pump – Recommend a High volume – Sealed Power High Volume (same as Melling HV) SEP 22441163V (74-78 Mustang II/83-85 Ranger 2.8L)
- Oil Pan – Mustang II has front sump – will not work in this conversion. Get Ranger/Bronco II 2wd rear sump pan & pickup. ‘79 Mercury Capri and some early Foxbody Mustang have correct rear sump. Don’t know about Aerostar! AutoZone usually carries them. Same as Pictured above. You will need to modify the Main bearing cap bolt to “add” a stud to the head for securing the oil pump pick up tube brace. I had a stud silver soldered on! Ranger/Bronco II bolts w/stud is too long and not enough threads , so beware!
- OIL Filter Adapter (Not shown) – FORD P/N FMS-M-6880-A50 Right angle ¾”-16 threads. Other FORD Dealer a. FMC Fotz61621a Gasket b. SPO E3tz6749a O ring c. SPO E3tz6a636a Copper Washer. These adapters are easily found in salvage yards on the 2.8, 2.9, 3.0 & 4.0 V6’s.
- Block plates – The Timing cover to engine block plate is pictured above but not pictured. It is located/PIC’d between Item 7 Cam Thrust plate and the engine block. The Engine to Bellhousing Block Plate is not pictured above. Below are the Automatic on left with the small window/plate and the manual type on the right. Make sure you have them.
- The PIC below depicts the Timing Cover to engine plate’s location between the TC and engine block
NOTE: Here is a link to a better understanding on the 60 Degree V6 Engine: http://myplace.frontier.com/~capriclubchicago/Cologne.html
Consisting of 2 pieces each side (upper & lower) w/Anchor Rubber Biscuits P/N 2424. PIC below shows the Mounts upside down for a good look at the “stop or catch” that connects to the cross member and locks the engine from going too far forward.
ENGINE MOUNT BRACKETS & WHY DanR is offering Engine Mounting Brackets for the 2.8 V6 Mustang II engine installation in an Alpine
The engine mount brackets I bought in an available “kit” at the time, sat off the back edge of the crossmember. A solution given to me was to weld a piece of exhaust pipe for support. Not liking that idea, I designed a bracket with a curved “lip” that catches on the backside edge of crossmember and serves as a “stop” which keeps the engine from moving too far forward. I have fitted several engines mated to the later model Mustang T5; C3/C4 & A4LD transmissions into different Alpines utilizing my Conversion Components & my Straight Back headers without any notable differences. I have at least 1/2 to 1″ clearance between the fan and radiator on my cars. The one with the 1/2″ clearance has an A/C unit installed which requires an additional pulley for the water pump and the harmonic balancer. So they work fine!
For ease of installation, I recommend a “mock-up conversion assembly” consisting of the engine block; engine mounts w/Anchor 2424 biscuits; timing cover; water pump; fan; modified thermostat housing; radiator modified w/upper connection top left; bottom right connection w/ 90 degree elbow underneath the bottom of the radiator pointing directly back toward the opposite side; a set of heads w/ or w/o valves etc.; bellhousing; Transmission (of choice) w/correct tranny mount bracket; and My straight back headers.
The headers that came with the “kit” I bought when I first started the V6 Conversion were not to my liking, they stuck out the sides right behind the front wheels (15 – 20 degrees) which would be fine for drag racing. Routing of the exhaust pipes was very difficult to get up and under the Alpine for normal driving. The Alpine is already a bit low to the ground, so I wanted headers that would run straight back similar to the Tiger exhaust system and not hang down for the speed bumps and such:) See PIC below of mine…
Stock Ford P/N D4ZE-8600-AA four blade from a 4 cylinder Mustang II works nicely on two of my cars. One is sporting an A/C unit. No Engine heating problems in Hot Sunny SC. See PIC’s.
Another Fan Option is one offered by fellow V6 ‘er Dennis Michaliga, a Volvo modification.
Rebuilding the front end is not necessary just because you are installing the V6 (approx. weight increase 75 lbs).
FRONT SUSPENSION & Weight of Alpine
I spotted some of SC Transport Police near me and asked if they would weigh my ’67 SV Alpine ST with the 2.8 V6…. Surprise! They were very interested in seeing and weighting it! I pulled into a flat, hard and level surface area and they pulled their scales out for me to drive up on!
Here are the results:
Front left: 620 Front right: 600 Total Front: 1220
Left rear: 550 Right rear: 550 Total Rear: 1100
TOTAL ALPINE WEIGHT 2.8 V6 w/T5: 2320
That is without occupants or any other stuff!
FUEL Block Plate
Oval shaped plate in the PIC.
GAS PEDAL UPPER ROD
Works well with the throttle linkage
Harmonic Balancer Bolts
NOS OEM Ford Crankshaft Pulley Bolt D4ZZ-6A340-A 1974 Mustang. A few left $15.00 each
Remember the Cologne Engine is Metric. My header bolts are 10mm 1.5 x 20 and 25 in length 12 point heads 12.9. Metric studs/bolts 20 mm in length can be used for the slotted bottom exhaust flange . See my recommended Head Work (modification) for the emission ports.
Suggest using with my recommended head modification to emission ports the Hooker P/N 10828 with your headers.
NOTE: Make sure you get gasket that have the division between the “Siamese” exhaust ports as pic’d above!
Recommend: New 2.9 intake and exhaust valves, hardened exhaust seats; Port & Polish will enhance breathing and make major difference in the 2.8; Trim gaskets to match ports. Instructions are available for drilling water passage which improves the life of the heads (Cool Heads prevail):) This PIC shows several things that might be of interest to you. First, to the left of my hand & between the exhaust valves you can see two small holes (⅛”) which are pilot holes for the water jacket passage modifications to the Head that will aid in cooling thus saving from cracking; Late model 2.9 Valves are installed; The Headers are my 1st Generation StraightBack’s with ⅜” thick Flanges as recommended by Sven Pruitt, they are not yet “notched”. As you can see notches are in the flange between the headers and the head for demo purposes. All of my headers will come with these notches so you can secure the bottom of the flanges to the heads, thus, eliminating potential exhaust leakages.
This PIC shows the emission holes plugged up! Next step is to drill and tap the Emission/PCV/Air holes in your heads using 10 mm 1.5 about ¾” deep using your new Straight Back headers or the Hooker 10828 as a template. Now you can finally tighten the top two bolts and not fear exhaust leaks:)
PIC’d above are the plugs used to “fill” the emission holes available in most all machine shops and PIC’d below the “plugs” before being cut off smoothly. Followed by drilling and tap work (10mm 1.5 thread).
HEADERS, STRAIGHT BACK
Designed for better performance, zero ground clearance problems and ease of routing the exhaust system.
WILL THEY FIT? I’ve been asked if my Straight-back Headers for the 2.8 V6 will fit on an Alpine with the jose kit? They have been fitted to several Alpine V6 conversions without difficulty. Chances are if you welded a piece of exhaust on the rear of the crossmember you may need to remove it before welding my bottom mount bracket piece in place. As for one of my Alpines, the GT BW35 that had the jose “welded nut”Kit washer on the back of the crossmember, I simply slipped the “Bottom Piece” of my mount bracket with the curved “catch” over the “kit washer” and welded it in place without any changes to the Headers, the Steering or Transmission.
HOSE, Water, Heater By pass, etc
1974-1978 Ford Mustang II Bypass Hose – Dayco 70773 or Gates or ? In the below PIC my Machine Guy welded in a fitting that adopted to the Bypass hose. Just one means of making it work.
Pic’d below is a Stock Metric Nipple 22MM 1.5 threads that screws into the Intake manifold for the bypass hose. They are most likely corroded as this one and needing replacement. Replacements are difficult if not near impossible. Several solutions can be found. See the hose picture above, just below the Temp sending unit and the ones below for some ideas.
OIL Filter Adapters
M-6880-A50 Adapter, Oil Filter, Right Angle, Aluminum, Natural, 3/4-16 in. Thread, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury,
Comes on all Ford V6s, from 2.8, 2.9, 3.0 and 4.0 & many others. You should be able to find one easily. (FORD oil filter adapter Part number FA141). I usually find them in the Salvage Yards for $15-30 bucks.
Recommend a short one for adequate clearance of the headers like the WIX 51348.
Oil Pickup Bolt(s) One a Kipping 8.8 is 1/4×3/4”x 24 TPI. RockAuto.com and AutoZone sells correct oil pans (Rear Sump)‘83-’86 Ranger/Bronco II for $64, Mutt II’s will not work. Be sure to use the special rubber gasket with this oil pan and a rear oil pump pick up and the special main cap bolt that has a screw sticking up on the head for bolting the oil pump pickup tube to keep it from fatiguing from vibration and breaking off.
There is a small plug covering the rear dipstick hole in the Mutt II engine block. While the pan is off, knock it out and install it in the front hole where the dipstick presently resides. Move the dipstick from the front driver side, to the rear driver’s side hole. A Ranger/Bronco II dipstick reads correctly (Remember the rear sump oil pan?).
OIL PRESSURE CONNECTIONS
Normally you will find the best connection just below where the manual fuel pump was connected. (Now the Fuel Pump Block Plate) See PIC. Some Conversions have utilized an electric sending unit. I used a 90 degree elbow and a copper line. Very tight, but doable. See PIC.
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
Standard P/N PS-64 recommend for emergency shut off.
OIL Pump Driveshaft
Melling IS-87 – Melling Heavy-Duty Intermediate Driveshafts Summit Racing has them for $8.73. AutoZone also carries them for 9-10 bucks.
PARTs & Numbers for 2.8 V6
May be of help
- 8546-A FAN BLADE SPACER MOUNT V-6
- 8600-A 2800 V-6 FAN BLADE 74-78
- 6B070-A PLATE ASSY 2.8 V6(TIMING COVER & BLOCK)
- 6A340-A V-6 CAMSHAFT PULLEY BOLT
- 6023-A V-6 TIMING POINTER.
I think best to get an adapter to fit your pilot shaft spud if needed.:) Here is some good reading material for the T5’s.
PILOT BEARING RETAINER/Housing
Needs to be shortened to the length of the 5.0 T5 (4”). And the diameter of the collar also needs to be milled/turned down to fit snugly in the opening of the Mutt II bellhousing. The Bellhousing ID is 4.850″ so to mate with a slip snug fit, the Input Bearing Retainer Collar diameter should be turned to 4.846″ +/- 0.001″. See PIC
Mustang II part number is D4ZA 7563
Water pump & pulley part# is D5ZE-8509-AA is the best. Don’t go with the one ending in CA because that is a 302 pulley.
Much can be said about what and how to do a Radiator modification so that your Alpine Powered by a FORD V6 will cool adequately.
First a discussion of the way the 2.8 V6 is designed to flow coolant:
When the engine is below operating temperature, coolant is circulated from the thermostat housing, through the water pump and distributed to both sides of the engine block. The water pump is bolted to the timing cover which forms the interface for the engine cooling passages. Coolant flows through the block, through the cylinder heads, then through the intake manifold where the temperature sender is located. A bypass port on the intake manifold and a rubber bypass hose allow the coolant to circulate through the engine until enough heat is built up to allow the thermostat to open. When the thermostat opens, coolant is introduced from the bottom of the radiator through the thermostat housing and into the water pump inlet which pushes the heated coolant out the top of the intake manifold and back to the radiator. The bypass path is necessary to prevent water pump cavitation and to ensure equal heat distribution within the engine block.
Aftermarket radiators today are almost always aluminum, and almost all aluminum radiators are cross-flow design. Installing one of these requires a certain level of customization by the fabricator or someone that is accomplished with welding aluminum.
Radiators vary between the series Alpines, and none of the stock configurations are adequate for cooling the 2.8 V6. The earlier series Alpines used cross-flow design while the later series used vertical flow. All came out stock with a two row core. The earlier series used overflow tanks. The Alpines were normally fitted with radiators that had 2 tubes and 9 fins per inch.
Modification to Stock Radiator
Your stock radiator can be re-cored to a three row, however finding a shop to work with copper radiators is a little more of a challenge than it was a few years ago. Modern radiators are mostly plastic and Aluminum. Ask around for the old timer shops and expect to pay around $400 for materials and labor.
The coolant output of the 2.8 motor is at the top center of the intake manifold with the stock housing pointing to the front right, and the input is at the lower left at the thermostat housing (needs to be modified).
My recommendation is fairly simple and has worked effectively for my V6 Alpines here in Sunny South Carolina even while running an A/C on the hottest of July days.
I start by having the stock core replaced by a copper unit consisting of three (3) tubes and seventeen (17) fins per inch. The tubes allow a flow of water, But, the fins are the most critical element in the dissipation of heat.
I have the bottom right hand hose connection removed and plugged off. Here is where I relocate the draincock. It is soldered in where the former bottom hose connection was located.
Then I have a 90 degree elbow fitted downunder to the bottom of the tank, with it pointing directly back across toward the left hand side of the radiator. Pictured below is the engine side of one of my modified radiators. Also there is a radiator shroud, I hand fabricated which may have also assisted in adequate cooling. Hope to have more made.
Now for the bottom hose connections:
The Gates Hose P/N 22080 trimmed to fit lower connections makes for a very nice job.
Below is a front view of the radiator showing the 90 degree elbow running the Gates 22080 hose over to the Modified Thermostat Housing on the bottom left of the 2.8 V6.
This bottom hose makes for a trouble free and easy method of replacement should you ever have road troubles. It also helps deflect air movement from under the radiator.
Here the bottom left of the radiator can be seen with the Modified thermostat housing in its position.
Here is a better view of how the hose connections go together.
This shows the Bottom Hose as it lays down in front of the engine and under the bottom edge of the radiator, I found that it is snug enough to help deflect air passing under the radiator, maybe helping the cooling:).
Here is where I trimmed a bit from the Gates 22080 hose for fitting to the Modified Thermostat Housing (between 4 and 5 inches). Just don’t precut…. Make sure by sitting the radiator in place before cutting!
This depicts the lower right hand side of the radiator and the 90 degree elbow “down under” the bottom tank. Note too the Draincock is fitted in where the original Alpine bottom hose connection was previously. It was move from the left side to here because it interfered and could possibly damage the hose connections to the Modified Thermostat.
Here is a shot from under the front of the Alpine where you can see plainly the 90 degree elbow fitted in the bottom tank of the radiator
Initially, fitting in my Blue Boy V6 this shows how the bottom hose lays in front of the crossmember. In this PIC you can see the modified thermostat housing with the Plug for the heater. If you desire a heater hose connection simply remove the ¼” NPT plug and purchase a Hose Nipple.
The Bypass Hose Housing connects to the backside of the Modified Thermostat Housing thru the timing cover using three metric bolts. Be extremely carefully and no overtighten, the bypass housing is aluminum and the threads strip easily.
The Bypass hose runs up to the Nipple in the Intake manifold.
The single pulley on the water pump will be replaced with a dual to match the bottom crank pulleys if you elect to do the A/C.
I removed my stock heater core and the heater fan assembly when doing a restoration project back in 2008 and replaced them with a Heat and Air unit (Vintage Air) because I wanted an option to run A/C here in Sunny South Carolina. I made that swap while I still ran the 1725 Engine. It ran very cool especially when the Hardtop was on. Now that the V6 is installed I designed a new Air Compressor Bracket and retained the Vintage Heat & A/C unit for a Cool Alpine:)
If you elect to keep your Stock Alpine Heater Core, beware of the possible troubles some owners have encountered by utilizing Radiator Caps with too much pressure (above 7 LBS) that may cause the heater core to rupture.
I recently found another heat & air unit suitable for our Alpines by Old Air. It’s model name: Hurricane.
Now for the top hose connections……PIC’d below is a stock water neck I modified to turn toward the left hand side of the radiator. I modify the OFY 4 bbl water necks also. The top hose Gates Part Number 22209 ? (Trimmed to fit). Works great! Just more expensive. I’m always trying to cut expenses but not the dependability and performance enhancement.
It should be noted that this was the first top hose modification I did. Discovered later that the angle needed to be about 10 degrees toward the center of the engine and upward about 3 degrees.
When I first started my V6 Conversion Project, most Guys were moving the top connection to the right top side and the bottom to the left. A very short (approx 4” ) hose was required to make the connection to the thermostat housing at the bottom proved a very difficult task.
After many hours trying to resolve what I thought was a very difficult procedure, I came to the conclusion to keep the original top connection on the left side and place the bottom right connection “under the tank with a 90 degree elbow pointing straight back across to the left side.
It was a very simple operation especially when I discovered the Gates 22080 hose! Next step was to route the top hose from the water neck of the intake manifold to the left connection on the radiator? That seemed a really easy solution, except I could not figure what hose or hoses to utilize? After some trial and error, it occured to me to modify the water neck to point toward the left side. Bingo! It worked nicely! Just more expensive than I really liked. An OFY 4 bbl intake water neck runs about $50, then cutting the nipple and welding in the left position, it runs close to $75. I have been selling them for $75 and $80 just for the benefit of V6 Conversion Guys.
I recently spotted a very neat idea from a fellow V6’er that had found the perfect hose for routing the top connection without the added expense of modifying the water necks! Now that is really something to jump on:) So, my recommendation is purchase a Gates 21341, cut in half, continue trimming until you get a good fit, then splice with a piece of pipe that fits the inside of the hose as pictured below. I found a sink drain pipe cut to proper length to work perfectly:)
Pictured above is a good shot of a good way to route your upper hose without the expense of modifying the water neck saving about $65.
Depending on how much power you intend on getting from your 2.8 V6, you could keep the stock rear end, thus saving you money and work. The stock rear end is pretty strong, check the ring gear bolts and swap out the soft stock woodruff keys. The SV’s are the stronger! I just changed out the wires to the four bolt hubs.
Rear Axle Options
One option, a Dana 44 from a 1970 Jeep DJ-5. Yes DJ as in 2wd Postal Jeep. It’s 49″ flange to flange and a 3.73 with Trac-Lok. kinda makes you think about using a 8.8 out of a mustang. My SV Rear axles are satisfactory for me.
SLAVE CYLINDER MOUNT BRACKET
Comparison between two brackets, Mine on the right sits further back toward the rear of the engine away from the heat generated by the Headers, hopefully prolonging the life of the Slave Cylinder
The next two PIC’s are showing the different slave cylinders in use in my Bracket. Note that if you elect to utilize an internal clutch Hyd release bearing the Slave Bracket is not need. Please take note the “bleeder” should be on the top side:)
In order to run a factory Rootes speedometer with the different transmission (T5-five speed conversion), the cable must be changed on the transmission end to fit the five speed. The upper ferrule stays the same and works just fine. If you are using a Tiger speedo, a factory issue or aftermarket Mustang cable of 64 to 66 vintage has the correct connections on both ends and is just the right length. Cactusmasher discovered this recently when He changed His speedometer from Alpine to Tiger.
I had good results with Texas Industrial Electrical email@example.com Sent one of my Alpine Speedometers and a matching Alpine cable to them (Steve) to have the transmission gear end fitted to a late model Mustang T5.
One choice is the MGB:OEM SHIFTER BOOT & RETAINER w/screws 72-80 MGB MGBGT
Your 4 cyl needs calibration to the V6. TomH on SAOCA is the Gent to see.
The Offy manifold accepts a 1/8 NPT temperature sender. A compatible temperature sender to use with the stock Series 3 to 5 Alpine temperature gauges is the New Vintage USA 99005-40 sender. It is available from Summit Racing (nvu-99005-40). Details on sender tests, including the New Vintage USA 99005-40 sender, are available at: Senders Report
Ford part Number 74 TM 6059 AA. Obtain from a Mustang II ’74-78, 2.8 V6 & other interchangeables such as Pinto, Mercury Capri & Bobcats.
Modified and has ¼ NPT plug for heater option
Available for T5; C3/C4 and A4LD transmission for Sunbeam Alpine mated to the 2.8 V6. Whether you have a stock 4 spd or the Borg Warner BW 35 Alpine, I have a Bracket for you.
Comments: Hi Ken, I have seen pictures of Dan´s crossmember and it will work beautifully. I suggest getting one. It will simplify your job a lot. Jose
PIC’d below is my 1st Generation Tranny bracket for a T5 in my Alpine that came from Rootes with an Automatic Borg Warner BW35. The three bolt pattern is for an automatic Alpine. Later BW35 bracket are laser cut and formed as one piece similar to the 4 speed Alpine style.
All of my Transmission brackets for BW35 Alpines will be three bolt pattern. Likewise, all Brackets for the Standard/Manual 4 speed Alpines bolt pattern will have four.
The chart below identifies various T5 applications and their specifications. The choice of your transmission may be a personal preference, availability and cost. Comments following may provide you with some fodder……
|B/W Id||Source||Application||Torq Max (lb/ft)||Gear Ratios||Input Shaft length
Note that the Input Shaft Length on some of the V8 models are about 5/8″ shorter than others. A T5 with the 7.18″ shaft requires a Pilot Bearing Adapter to extend the pilot bearing and compensate for the shorter input shaft. AS NOTED BELOW: The shorter shaft does not require modification, however you will need to use a Type 2 pilot bearing adapter.
COMMENTS: Hi, Dan: The input shafts should be the same length, my trans is a 238, out of a 1996 Mustang with a 3.8 in front of it. I like the gearing on that trans. I made a pilot bearing adapter that pressed into the flywheel, because the input shaft on these transmissions are just a bit short, and will not go all the way into the existing pilot bearing if installed in the way the factory calls for…the original 4 speed had a longer shaft, by about .750″, than the T5. My adapter will press into the existing flywheel, and use the factory pilot bearing.
PS, I did run my motor for 2 years without the pilot bearing adapter…I installed just as the factory recommends…so it will work, I just don’t think it is ideal. Kelly Mathis
Comment: The factory shifter does not have positive stops and the shift forks can get bent. Also the aftermarket shifters have a spring to assist 2nd to 3rd. I have had good luck with the $40 Ebay Mustang T5 shifter. Not too fond of the boy racer colored shift lever. Try to find the silver or black one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACING-SHORT…odel%3AMustang – Jim Nichols
Transmission Rubber Mount
T5 1975-1978 Mutt II Transmission Mount – Westar EM-2566 … Check the height compatibility with the T5 Transmission Bracket ? Might need 2565 or maybe 2784 which is 2 ¾” tall. Alignment in the tunnel will be very close so check for adequate clearance.
Transmission Data on An AUTO for the V6 Alpine
V6 Tranny Data for Auto A4LD 4 speed w/OD identified by “T” in transmission code. Overall length 28.687”. In being since ’86. Newest Version has 5th gear (Computer controlled) Upgrades available in an off road package for manual control. Google: Will an A4LD bolt to a 2.8 (Advance Adapters). Readily adapts to the V6 60 degree engines.
Transmission Tunnel Modification
Recommend you read the Article By Jim Ellis at the SAOCA site.
PIC’s below are taken from the Article.
SPECIAL NOTE: If you choose to utilize the internal Hyd release bearing, you can remove the clutch release rod/bell crank from the Mutt II Bellhousing and forgo extensive tunnel modification.
Cologne 2.8 V6 rocker covers: These custom covers are unique by Redmond Metalcasting (jrcast.org).
Here are a couple used ‘74-’78 Mustang II 2.8 V6 water pumps, note in the lower left of the picture you will see a small square hole, it is a good identifier between the Mustang II and the later 2.8 engines in the Ranger and Bronco II’s.
If you have comments, questions, & suggestions, please contact Dan Richardson
E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org or call 864-554-0814
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